Engineering - Toolbox

Over the last three days I have been in the workshop fabricating a Toolbox for the final part of the Engineering module, I began with pre-cut pieces of 1.6mm mild steel sheet and with the design drawings I began to mark out the measurements for folding and cutting the material. Once the steel was all marked out and cut I began folding the required pieces to make the components of the Toolbox. I began with the base and sides of the toolbox followed by the ends of the box and the shelves for the tray, once these were folded I clamped the pieces together and spot welded them in place. After the box was together I began cutting the hinges to size to fit the lid, and then measured, marked and folded the two pieces of the lid. after the lid and hinges were spot welded in place I made the tray for inside the toolbox, once the tray was finished I used pieces of square bar which I cut at 45 degree angles to make the handle for the tray. Next came the handles for the toolbox and the saddles for the handles, once these were completed I began to MIG weld the handles onto the toolbox and tray, a latch to keep it closed, followed by welding all the joints, hinges and to reinforce the toolbox. After welding it all up I gave the welds a quick tidy up with the angle grinder. I will be painting the toolbox in the near future and will be uploading pictures once I have them.


the base and sides of the box folded up.


The end of the toolbox before folding with cuts for the folds to weld it into the box and to make room for the hinges.


The shelves of the toolbox to hold the tray in place.


Toolbox ends and shelves spot welded together and to the toolbox.


One half of the lid of the toolbox pre-folding.


Folding one side of the lid, the small piece of metal is a guide for the fold required for the lid.


The lid and hinges spot welded in place.


This photos is just to show the action of the hinge and how the lid closes.


The tray folded up.


Tray inside the Toolbox, nice fit!


handle for the tray clamped in place ready for welding.


Handles welded onto the toolbox.


Toolbox complete with latch.


Movements of the handles and latch.


Tray complete with handle inside toolbox.


The inside of the toolbox, all of the welds can be seen to show the reinforcement of the toolbox.

Electrical Engineering

Tapping

Last week in the workshop we covered tapping and removing a broken stud. We started by drilling a hole into a piece of steel, then we tapped and and screwed a bolt into it, we then cut the head of the bolt to simulate a broken stud. We began by drilling through the broken stud right the way through, then used an EZ out to remove the broken stud. After this was complete we covered repairing a thread. We drilled out the hole and re-tapped it, we then used a Heli-coil to repair the thread.


Tapping the hole that was drilled.


The bolt with its head chopped off


Drilling through the broken stud.


Using the EZ out to remove the broken stud.


Repairing the thread with the Heli-Coil.

Workshop Tools

Please answer the following questions on common work shop tools (in your E Portfolio). Copy and paste the questions in your E Portfolio and answer below. The CDX on-line text book is a good resource to use click on the link and have a look through, this e text book will have all the answers you need CDX E Text Book for the hand tools questions.

1. What is the name of the hammer most commonly used in Automotive engineering?
Ballpein Hammer

2. What would you typically use one for?
Flattening or Peining a Rivet

3. Why would you use a soft faced hammer?
To prevent damage or scratching to work surfaces

4. What type of hammer would you use to give a really strong blow to a chisel?
Lump Hammer

5. What would you use a mallet for in Automotive Engineering?
A job that requires you to use force to get a bolt/bung in without damaging the surface

6. When would you use a dead blow hammer?
In a small or enclosed environment

7. What can cause a hacksaw blade to clog?
Material is too thick to cut

8. What can happen if the blade is too coarse for the job it is intended for?
The blade will grab the material

9. What should you do before and after using a hacksaw?
Clean the blade, make sure its tight.

Welding Day 2

Continued learning my welds today, finished the last two I needed to do which were the lap weld and the T joint weld. Had a couple of goes at the lap weld before I got the hang of it but I got there eventually. The T joint weld was alot more difficult to get the hang of, trying to get the two surfaces molten and keep feeding the rod on this one was proving a bit of a challenge.


Close-up view of the T joint weld, its a bit messy cause I had trouble keeping both surfaces molten.


Another view of the T-joint.


The lap weld after a couple of tries.


Close up of the middle of the lap weld, took this photo to show what a proper weld looks like; A little row of coins.

Welding Day 1

Today we started learning about gas welding, steve took us into the workshop and we began to weld Steel so that we could learn and begin to understand the process of welding, we began by melting the two pieces of steel to join them together, then we used the welding rod which I found alot more difficult, but just have to continue practicing until i get the hang of it.


First attempt at welding two pieces of steel together, not enough heat on the metal to get the weld through to the other side properly


Second attempt, this weld is alot cleaner and has penetration the entire way through the weld


Corner joint, the hole is because the welding torch I was using had something stuck in the nozzle and was causing too much oxygen so the torch was acting more like a cutting torch than welding torch


Inside of the corner joint showing the penetration to the inside of the weld


First use of the welding rod, this is where I had the most difficulty trying to move the rod forward as I was putting the rod into the molten pool and dragging forward, It's a bit messy but as steve said its all about practice.

TTEC 3203 Engineering Technology

Micrometer Task

A task of micrometer measurements we received from Dave to fill out.

500hp Mazda Fe3 turbo

Engine Stripping Day 3

Today in the workshop we learnt about measuring the cam lobes and the crankshaft, I measured four intake and four exhaust valves to get an understanding of the difference in size. I started to measure the bore, measuring the TDC, middle and BDC of each bore to check for Ovality and Taper. We also learnt about Core Plugs and how to check for coolant in the engine, as well as touching on the workings of the starter motor and flywheel. Tomorrow I will finish measuring the bore and then continue on to measure the piston rings. Really enjoying this course, the information intake is a bit full on especially the paperwork, but I'm getting through it and thoroughly enjoying every minute in the workshop.

Jack and Secure a Car Safely.

Last week on Monday the 30Th of June we went into the workshop to learn how to Jack and Secure a car safely, taking health and safety into account. We jacked up the car on the cross-member using a trolley jack and then placed axle stands under the car. We then repeated this process on the rear of the car, we removed the wheel covers and the wheels and placed the wheels, covers and wheel nuts underneath the car to prevent anyone tripping over them. After we had taken the wheels off we had a look at the front disc brakes and the rear drums, Rob then went on to teach us the basics about how the brakes work.

Stripping an Engine Day 2

Today in the workshop we learnt about compression inside the compression chamber, pistons and piston rings, as well as taking the measurements of the bore (Ovality and Taper), piston rings and valves, no pictures today but will take some tomorrow when i am taking measurements.

JSF e28 BMW 545 Turbo 951hp/1063nm

The Four and Two Stroke Engine Cycle

Stripping an Engine.

Today we worked on stripping down engines and learnt about the four-stroke engine cycle. we aligned the timing with the TDC (Top Dead Centre) and the BDC (Bottom Dead Centre), Removed the rocker cover and then dismantled the head, followed by the engine block. We learnt about internal combustion and how the fuel and air mix in the Combustion Chamber reacts when the spark is fired. All in all a good day and learnt alot of new things and can't wait to get back into the workshop tomorrow to begin rebuilding the engine!

Timing the engine to align with the TDC


This is the timing for the crankshaft, shows the notch aligned with TDC


The head with rockers removed.


The rockers, Top is the intake side and bottom is exhaust side.


Removing the head bolts, I started from the center and worked my way out.


Using the valve spring clamp to remove the valves from the head.


Valve seals, used to prevent oil from leaking into the combustion chamber.


The crank shaft after i removed the pistons.


Oil catch can.


Pistons, crankshaft brackets and thrust washers, ready to remove the crankshaft.


The crankshaft after removal.


The oil pump which I removed so I could take out the crankshaft.


oil sump, Had to remove to get to the pistons and crankshaft brackets


The valves from the head, top is intake and bottom are exhaust, separated to make sure I don't get them mixed up when i rebuild the engine